Our timing couldn't have been better as we arrived on the 350th anniversary of the founding of the city and celebrations were underway. The central square was a hubbub of activity as people flocked to buy helium balloons and plastic tat that filled the stalls and the smell of smoked sausage lingered in the air. There was even an old army canteen vehicle serving up steaming plates of stew ladled from huge vats.On stage budding actors performed the history of Irkutsk. I don't think it was meant to be a comedy, but the farcical fight scenes and garish costumes certainly made it seem that way - then confirmed by a horse relieving itself in front of a thousand or so people - only nobody was laughing. Maybe it was the cold!
In the evening there was a concert in the central square. I think the Russian Eurovision entry was performing - a bit cheesy - but again people watched happily, some even dancing and singing along. The grand finale was a firework display. We made our way to the river, where we were told that we could watch it, only to find that it was all happening in the central square! We saw some of the display as it soared above the trees and houses but it was mostly a series of loud bangs that echoed off the buildings around us as we made our way back to the hostel (which was just off the central square.) Oh yes, and we had our first vodka - although we couldn't persuade anyone to join us. Perhaps this was because it was gone midnight, but the five hour time difference between here and Moscow had put us slightly out of sync!
For our second day in Irkutsk we had planned to go to Lake Baikal but we woke up late and neither of us fancied it. We were both tired and cold so we hung around in the hostel. Unfortunately, this was before we realised that there was no heating (nobody has it until it is turned on by the government in October, when everyone gets it, whether you want it or not, ah communism!) and no hot water due to repair works! Despite the temperature, when the electricity also went off we gave up and ventured outside only to find it was warmer than the hostel! We felt a bit glum so we decided to go to the London Pub for some home comforts. However, as the power was out everywhere, we were quite harshly told "NO FOOD!" as two plates were carried out of the kitchen in front of us. Now I know how Mary and Joseph felt, only at least I'm not heavily pregnant! (Although if I was, I don't think Darren would accept the immaculate conception as an excuse!)
On our final day we were a little more adventurous! We made our way by rickety old tram to the long distance bus station where one minibus was waiting, half full of locals. We loitered near it for a while, guide book in hand, unsure what to do. When I plucked up enough courage to use a little of the Russian that I had memorised everyone was very helpful. Lots of gesturing and pointing led us to the ticket office where we were told that the next bus was in 3 hours. We returned to the minibus as the driver was shutting the door. Fortunately he accepted our 200 Rouble bung and we climbed on board.
The 64km took about an hour and a quarter to drive, the road navigating hills, forests and rivers. The village of Listvyanka is stretched along 4km of coastline, rarely more than two houses deep except for the occasional valleys through which the rivers run. After taking some photos we wandered through a small market selling staggeringly overpriced souvenirs. A dinky stone statue, barely an inch an a half high, cost over £60!
We looked for somewhere to eat but the cafes were either closed or still being built so we continued our walk along the beach. Lake Baikal is very beautiful, the air clear and fresh, and with stunning vistas across the water to snow covered mountains on the far side.
At the other end of the village we found the local museum, paid our entry fee and went inside. Of the exhibits, there was a small aquarium containing examples of fish from the lake such as perch, pike, sturgeon and carp as well as two rather curious looking seals who simply swam backwards and forwards in their small enclosure, with very little stimulus.
Upstairs, there were displays about diving and a gory room full of bleached specimens in formaldehyde filled jars. l can't say much more about either as there were no English descriptions. I can understand the argument for learning the language spoken in places that you visit, and our Russian is coming on quite nicely for beginners, but realistically it would have taken years of studying to be able to read these signs!
We flagged down a minibus from the side of the road which took us back to Irkutsk. The ride was not as smooth as our journey out, and the smell of diesel made Darren feel a bit queasy. (But a burger and chips from 'Chick n Pizza' soon perked him up!)
Back at the hostel, there was still no hot water. After spending 4 nights on the train, and then 3 nights here with just one (very quick) cold rinse in the shower, I decided to have a bath - using all the pots and pans in the kitchen to boil up some water!
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