Arriving in San Jose, we made our way by taxi to a hotel, our first once since leaving Belize. Checking into our room was almost overwhelming, a huge expanse of luxury on the sixth floor with a view across the city. Two huge double beds covered in pillows and cushions, a large flatscreen tv, and best of all a hot water shower! We hardly managed to leave the room for a few days - except to re-familiarise ourselves with a Taco Bell. We did manage a walk in a nearby park, and a short stop at the art museum (housed in the beautiful former airport terminal). Otherwise our time was spent catching up on a few chores - finding a laundrette and an internet cafe from which to book up our journey home.
After having a relaxing few days to ourselves, we met up with our tour group. Instead of a welcome meeting we had a one hour Spanish Language lesson. Initially we were skeptical of it's usefulness, everyone else had no Spanish and by this time we had been using ours with some success - but we had to admit that it was interesting to hear the difference in pronunciation between Costa Rica and Guatemala - for example they really hit the "J" pronunciation in the word "llamo"much harder the we had been taught.
The following morning the group set off for Sarapiqi. It was great not having to worry about how we got from A to B for a change, we were able to sit in the minibus and chat to our fellow guests, an eclectic mix of people; Rob from north London; Muniza from Toronto; Mayu from Yokohama; and Sally and Meg from Austin, Texas. On route we were stopped by a police checkpoint, the smiling officer cheerfully inspected our passports and wished us a pleasant stay in Costa Rica. Another contrast to the surly officials we have met in the last few countries.
After throwing our bags behind the reception we made our way to La Selva, an ecological research station in the lowlands of the North East, a place where scientists from around the world gather to collect data on the wildlife of Costa Rica's rainforests. It's easy to see why they chose this place, within a 2 minute walk of the reception we came across a huge iguana sitting in a tree, several bats sleeping under a branch, whilst a curious howler monkey followed us across the entrance bridge.
We spent a pleasant couple of hours walking around the site, being shown around by a knowledgeable guide who pointed out plenty of things we might have missed, although we didn't need any help spotting the peccary which stumbled across our trail. Because of the research credentials of La Selva we were told that an incredible 250 scientific papers are published each year from data collected here.
We returned to our hotel for the evening and began to inspect the our lodgings. Located on the edge of the jungle, Hacienda Pozo Azul consisted of a number tents scattered around a bamboo lounge area. Clearly attempting the "hidden jungle retreat", they fell slightly wide of the mark - I could see a concrete basketball court through the gaps in the foliage.
But, it was still an interesting place to spend a few nights. One afternoon an ant-eater was seen in a tree just above one of the tents, and that night we discovered a bright yellow and black frog in our bathroom. Having just had a lecture about frogs, and being acquainted with the concept of the poison dart, we called reception. Fortunately the security guard advised us our little lodger wasn't dangerous!
The next day, after wandering through some jungle trails by ourselves, we were taken to visit a chocolate farm (I can hear the murmers of jealousy from here - and I have to tell you it WAS that good). After crossing a disturbingly high and wobbly bridge, we hiked through the forest to the chocolate trees! Here we were given an interesting demonstration of the making of both hot chocolate and chocolate bars, along with a potted history of the cacao tree.
I could tell you some interesting facts about the history of chocolate now, but what you really want to know is how did it taste, right? Well, the answer is "delicious". I'm not really one to moan about the merits of a mass produced chocolate bar against a supposedly "premium" brand, but I can assure you neither comes close to the taste of chocolate which has just been made in front of your eyes. Fortunately this was a "practical" lesson! The smell alone was enough to make my mouth water. Rather amusingly, Gemma asked the chef if he liked chocolate, his reply was negative.
On the walk back to the bridge we also spotted another ant-eater, this time carrying her baby on her back (I'm proud to say I was the spotter in this case). So the walk back took twice as long, stopping for photos and my knees knocking as we re-crossed the bridge. As we waited for our bus we were kindly given a small bag of fermented seeds, so we'll be able to try making our own chocolate on our return.
The following day we moved on to La Fortuna, a town situated in the shadow of Volcan Arenal (one of the worlds top 20 most active volcanos). Our first port of call was the home of a lady called Doña Mara, for a lesson in making tortillas. Once we were all gathered around the work surface, Doña Mara showed us how to mix the ground corn with water, salt and (surprisingly) grated cheese. Now we had a huge bowl of dough, the real fun began.
Taking a clump of the dough we made small balls, which were placed onto a plastic mat on the work surface and then gently patted down into a tortilla shape (some more successfully than others) before being thrown onto a large frying pan and fried for 2 minutes on either side. We were then allowed to eat the fruits of our admittedly small labour. Accompanied by soured cream, beans and cheese, these warm tortillas made a delicious snack. Fortunately the kind lady had also prepared a meal for us, a chicken stew with rice, accompanied by roasted yucca. After the fast food experience of San Jose, Doña Mara's homecooked lunch was perfect.
After such a delicious meal we retired to our new hotel, the Mountain Paradise. What a contrast to our lodgings of the last few months. Not only did we have a hot tub on the patio (looking out towards a view of the Volcano, but a choice of two hot showers (one a traditional power shower, the other a themed waterfall). To top it off we had a bed bigger than some of the rooms we had previously stayed in, and a towel folded into the shape of an elephant. Apparently it takes months to get used to hostelling, but minutes to get used to luxury!
In the evening we paid a visit to one of La Fortuna's famed hot springs. Our guide had chosen the Baldi Location, an expensive top end site. The natural springs had been twisted and turned, with the aid of many props, to resemble something you might find in any expensive hotel around the world, which I felt was something of a shame. Where I had been hoping for a natural experience, everything felt too "planned". Still, Gemma enjoyed exploring the different pools and water slides, whilst I lounged around, enjoying spot of my favourite hobby, moaning to myself.
The following day we had some free time, so we caught the bus into town. La Fortuna is a small place, and besides the numerous gift shops there wasn't a great deal to explore. So we made the best of it by grabbing some lunch in a popular Soda (small restaurant) then returning to the hotel to enjoy our hot tub, air conditioning and live Premier League.
Our next stop was Monteverde, a town settled by Quakers from the US in the fifties (when they fled the draft for the Korean War). To get there we were bussed to Lake Arenal, and sailed across in a private boat. The view of the volcano completely changed. Where it had lush green slopes on the La Fortuna side, it now had a dismal gray ashen tone, the result of an eruption some years ago. The lake was also a haven for birds, our guide Danny spotted several which he proudly identified for us.
Continuing by bus uphill, we made a brief stop when we saw a sloth clutching the branches of a tree, and another when we saw a cow riding a horse, and arrived in Monteverde early in the afternoon. The town wasn't quite the mountain paradise I had been imagining, there were plenty of ugly modern buildings. Meg, who had been here 15 years previously commented upon the transition from colourful wooden buildings to what we now saw, a beautiful natural spot populated by bright plastic and glass facades full of posters promising the greatest adventure sports "ever".
Later that day we took a tour of a coffee farm. The guide took us through the process of growing and producing coffee, along with the processing of sugar cane. Apparently the Costa Rican government banned the cultivation of all coffee except Arabica, which probably explains why I am drinking so much of the stuff here. We keep hearing that all the best produce is exported, but I've never enjoyed coffee with so much flavour. Interestingly, it had never occurred to me that coffee was native to Africa, while Cacao indigenous to Central America. In modern times the two continents have made a swap, and Africa now produces more chocolate whilst Central America more coffee.
After our tour, I was dropped off at the local Serpentarium, Gemma opted to miss this one and carried on back to the hotel. Inside I marvelled at the collection of exotic snakes, with one in particular catching my eye. Neither the most beautiful, nor the biggest, the Terciopelo (more commonly known as the fer de lance) is responsible for 46% of all snake bits in Costa Rica. This is hardly surprising given it's apparent prevalence near human habitations, along with it's recorded irritability, speed, and unpredictability. Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on your preference, I didn't manage to get a good photo of it!
The next day we were taken to a reserve in the Cloud Forest a short, bumpy drive from Monteverde. I considered calling trading standards, because we didn't see a single cloud! So effectively it was another pleasant walk in a forest. We didn't see a huge amount of wildlife, apart from a rather shy sloth, so the guide brought our attention to the plants of the forest. If I'm completely honest, I find it hard to get as excited about a tree as I do a wild animal, and palms and ferns were hardly new to us in Costa Rica, let alone Central America.
The guide did his best, but I think a few of us were feeling a little underwhelmed, and combined with the altitude, the effect was to render me a little morose. The afternoon was earmarked for adventure sports, which for Gemma and several others involved zip-lining in the forest canopy, whilst for me I had planned a swim in the pool. That didn't go to plan, as my head hit the pillow and I fell asleep. Gemma had a great time playing Tarzan, but I will let her tell her story on her next blog update.
The following morning, the last full day of our tour, we drove out to the Pacific coast, to a town called Jaco. Jaco is a disappointingly ugly town, with a long beach which appears unloved and dirty. The tourist industry appears well developed, alongside the sort of hotels which litter the coastline of benidorm there was a collection of the detritus which "progress" washes up on too many beaches, mainly in the form of plastic.
Whilst some of the group went for a paddle, we wandered into town and found a cheap local restaurant to eat at. I've previously mentioned the Soda's, they are a good way to eat inexpensively in Costa Rica, although the fare can sometimes be a little inconsistent. They are usually not much to look at, but appearances can be deceptive, We discovered a better one, and after lunch strolled around town trying to avoid the touts and hawkers.
The drive to San Jose took us over a large river. The bus stopped and we were told to walk across, with our cameras. We followed Danny's instructions and were treated to the sight of around 20 large crocodiles lazing in shadow of the bridge. It was an awesome sight, and while snapping away merrily with our cameras, none of us thought to ask why these territorial wild animals congregated here. It turns out a local man comes along to feed them so they cast aside their differences for a regular meal, which I found slightly disappointing. Although I'd be willing to bet the local fish hold a contrary position.
We arrived back in San Jose, 8 days after we had set off with a great deal of respect for the natural wonders that Costa Rica offers, mixed in with a slight disdain for the direction that progress appears to be taking. Costa Rica is a beautiful and varied country, from the Caribbean lowlands to the volcanic highlands, full of amazing sights and enjoyable activities. But as with all edens, care needs to be taken to ensure that what attracts the visitors does not become that which keeps them away. Just by one example, we were told by several people that we were lucky to have seen so many wild ant-eaters. Apparently even now it is more common to see them dead by the roadside. The roads which everyone, us included, travels on to see the sights are guilty of causing the deaths of what we came to see.
It is not uncommon to see "eco" added before the name of a hotel or attraction, but when you step inside you discover huge great plazas of concrete or rubbish strewn around the ground. There are people here who are aware of the impact this might have, but whether they are able to influence the policy makers remains to be seen. Given the tone of previous blogs throughout central America, it might sound like I am being overly harsh on Costa Rica, and I'd have to agree with that. I didn't really go into the effect of humans in other countries through which we have travelled.
I'd suggest this is probably for two reasons. Firstly Costa Rica is evidently fiscally better off than anywhere we have been since Mexico. By way of comparison, GDP expressed per Capita in Costa Rica is over $10,000 per annum - compared to $5000 in Guatemala, $2500 in Nicaragua and $1500 in Honduras. Maybe this doesn't mean they have any more or less responsibility to the environment than anywhere else, we all have to live here so we should all share the same level. But I do think that financial wellbeing ought to make it easier to implement strategies that can lessen our impact on mother nature. We did briefly visit a recycling centre in La Fortuna, which is a promising start, but they need a great deal of support just to cover their area. In other areas the rubbish overflows from unemptied bins.
The second reason I think I am being critical is that I absolutely loved Costa Rica. From a wildlife perspective, it is second only to east Africa in my list of places to spot animals. There are so many beautiful creatures here that it seems such a shame to have to risk squashing them under a 4x4, or altering their natural behaviours for our own enjoyment. I'd like to think that future generations will be able to come here and stare giddily up a tree as a mother ant-eater carries her baby through the branches, rather than have to look in a book to see what it "used" to look like.
And my critical thought doesn't end there, it extends to my own actions too. The next time someone dangles a crocodile in front of my lens I'm going to ask how it got there. The next time I check in to a hostel and discover a caged parrot or toucan I will check straight out. I'm definitely going to make more of an effort to consider my own personal impact, and how I can go about making a positive change.
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